Posted on October 25 2018
On the earlier post the different weight categories of T-shirts was discussed in general, with GSM values and other aspects of fabric weight and appearance explained in some detail. With all the 'science' out of the way we can now dig deeper into the differences between the T-shirt qualities in the DIIPLE collection and answer the questions that have arisen considering this topic.
What are the different qualities used in the DIIPLE T-shirt collection and how do they differ from one another?
All DIIPLE T-shirts are 100% cotton single jersey. There are essentially three different weight categories that determine the price of the T-shirts.
Our value weight quality has a GSM of 180. Check the previous post to see what this means in more detail, but essentially the GSM value is the fabric weight per square meter. For many brands, a GSM of 180 would be high quality, as 160 or even 150 would be considered standard.
At DIIPLE, however, even our more lightweight T-shirts are a nice, dense knit of a clearly higher weight. You’ll find this quality in the Dispositif T-shirt and the Mixing Humans and Nonhumans T-shirt.
The heavier GSM value styles are the Sociologie pragmatique T-shirt and the Governmentaly T-shirt with a GSM of 200. You can clearly tell the difference when wearing the T-shirt, but a heavier weight category does not mean that the T-shirt is uncomfortably thick. Cotton is of course a natural fiber and all 100% cotton garments are also naturally breathable.
The dense knit of the fabric cranks up the weight category and a denser knit also means a longer lasting garment that will maintain its original shape and colors after washing and wearing.
Our crown jewel so to speak in the collection is the men's Capital in the 21st Century jersey shirt. Made from heavy-weight cotton single jersey with a ¾ raglan cut sleeve and a classic color combo of red and white, this shirt is at the same time a current fashion piece and an iconic style classic.
Our women styles are slightly lighter, with a GSM of 160. These styles are of course the three styles found in our category WOMEN in the web shop. The women’s’ styles are more body con and using a lighter jersey makes for more comfort in a snugger fit. By choosing just your right size according to our measurements, you’ll also get the perfect fit for you.
The DIIPLE T-shirts feel very soft compared to many T-shirts on the market. How has this been achieved?
All DIIPLE T-shirts are made from combed cotton, that’s why they are so soft and smooth.
Combed cotton is softer than regular cotton because it doesn't have any impurities or short threads sticking out of it. Combed cotton is also stronger than regular cotton because the combing process removes short fibers, which break easily.
After combing, the straightened fibers join more tightly, and thus it does not fray or unravel as easily. These benefits plus the additional work required during the manufacturing process makes combed cotton more luxurious than regular cotton and a bit more expensive.
An additional feature in DIIPLE T-shirts is the light brushing of the surface of the jersey. This gives the garment an added aspect of softness. The process is like the brushing of heavier knits like sweatshirt materials. In the case of hoodies and sweatpants, the brushing is on the inside of the garment, where as the ever so light brushing is the DIIPLE T-shirts in on the outside.
The light brushing will not affect the longevity of the T-shirt in any way or result in lint. It is just one more extra thing we add to make your DIIPLE experience that much better.
Why are all DIIPLE T-shirts 100% cotton. Wouldn’t adding some elastane to the jersey make for more comfort when wearing the garment?
Elastane fibers were a huge breakthrough in the garment business in its day (elastane fiber was invented in Germany in 1937) and even now, it is an essential fiber in garments where high elasticity is needed, such a s in tight, sportswear, swimsuits and – yes – also T-shirts.
Elastane, however, is not as long-lasting as natural fibers and there will eventually come a time, when the fiber gives out. Ever suddenly realized your swimsuit has a huge patch of loose fabric (usually on some extremely unflattering part of the swim suit)? That’s where the elastane fiber has broken. Mix some elastane with cotton and sooner or later the garment will lose its elasticity and you’ll wind up with a T-shirt (or leggings or whatever) with broken strands of elastane fibers sticking out of it.
Also, with everything we now know about microfibers from man-made materials floating in the seas and indeed making their way through our own bodies, it just makes sense to go 100% natural. This is not to say that elastane fibers have been rendered unnecessary, as there are many garments that will always need to have the feature of freedom of movement and elasticity. It’s just that as we at DIIPLE don’t see adding elastane a necessity, we have opted to go without.
One more point that advocates the use of 100% cotton is the fact that prints will stay on cotton better than on the surface of a blend quality. We certainly don’t want our great DIIPLE prints to crack or peel off the T-shirt after some washing (unless we really want it to crack or peel off, but that’s another story we’ll feature later – stay tuned).